Thursday, 23 April 2015

contemporary victorian hair styles, inspired by american horror.

Product list
curlers
pin tail comb
hair pins
paddle brush

method:
1. make a off centre parting
2. on the side with more hair create three curls pinning as you go
3. on the side with less create two curls and pin as you go.
4.curl two below these curls on each side into the face.
5. then do the same process with all of the back of the head in a brick laying format.



6. take out all the pins from the back of the head
7.twist the bottoms in on itself and pin along the bottom of the hair line to keep it all tucked in
8. individually take out the curls from the front and smooth round
9.take the ends of the curls and make neat circles and shapes and pin those in place




10. take all the pins out again
11. take a paddle brush and brush it gently through the ends to create a flick.

12. take the head off of the black and shake it upside down.



Wednesday, 22 April 2015

ageing with make-up

With theatrical ageing we begin the process the same as with any make-up look. a counceltation form between you and your client needs to be talked through to ensure there are no contra-indications such as allergies or sawness of the skin. make sure to cover your client with a apron before beginning any work.

Products needed:
cleanser, toner, moisturiser
Kryolan foundation pallet
supra colour pallet
disposible mascara wand
loose powder
barrier cream
sponge's
liquid latex
bowl/ pot
hairdryer

Process of Theatrical Ageing
1. Cleanse, tone and moisturise the face to prep for make-up, and ensure the face is clean of any other cosmetics.
2. From the supra palette I blended the green yellow and red together. Mixing it with the appropriate amount of white for Daniella's skin tone. This will make a brown which I will use to create dramatic contours and lines of the face. 
3. I then made Daniella make these creases and lines in her face by posing with  various different facial expressions, like frowning smiling laughing and generally moving her features around as much as she could. whilst she did this I used a thin brush to work into these lines showing the shape and shadows they create with the supra colour mix i made.
4. to soften the harsh drawn on lines i used my little finger (so i didn't wipe off all the product) and gently smudged and blended out the lines
5. to enhance the overall look i went back into some of the creases with darker and lighter shades to make them more dramatic.
6. when done with the wrinkles i used a stippling sponge on Daniellas cheeks to make it look like she had broken veins swell. i dipped this in red supra colour and lightly dabbed at the top of her cheekbone.
7. I then used a disposable mascara wand and dipped it in the white supra colour and ran this through both her eyebrows and eye lashes to make them look grey.
8. to make sure the maw-up stayed fixed i lightly powdered with Illamasqua translucent powder.  






Process of Creping the Skin
1. I made Daniella clean her hands before I began to make sure the surface i was working on wouldn't have any product or dirt on.
2. Apply a barrier cream to the area and work into the skin.
3. I then emptied the latex into a dish and let it rest for a couple of minutes. 
4. keeping the sections of skin I'm working on tight i used the sponge to patt a small layer of latex on.
5.next i dried this layer by using a cool hairdryer and slowly shaking it at a small distance from the latex area.
6. i continued this process repeatedly adding layer upon layer whilst blending out the ages making sure i don't get a bump of latex at the end and that it smoothly joins to the skin.
7. using the same tone as Daniella's skin I finished this look with a bit of foundation and translucent powder to set.




Dark Eyes and Lips

Before any look on a client health and safety requires I do a consultation with my client which i did with Daniella and there were no contra-indications. I also put a apron on my client. 
Product List:
M.A.C matte Russian red lipstick
M.A.C matte diva lipstick
M.A.C ruby woo lipglass
M.A.C night moth lip pencil
M.A.C fashion boost pro longwear lip pencil
M.A.C strut eyebrow pencil
M.A.C 217 eyeshadow brush
M.A.C 224 eyeshadow brush
KRYOLAN 9720 eyeshadow brush
Benefit what's up! soft focus highlighter
 eye brow sharpener
disposable lip brushes
MUA heaven and earth eye shadow pallet - aurora, Myan dust, valley, canyon, tectonite, bedrock.
ILLAMASQUA loose powder.
Cleanser, toner, moisturiser.

For this look you start with the eyes before any thing else as the dark fall out won't ruin any make-up.

Dark Eyes Process:
1.  Cleanse , tone and moisturise the face
2. cover the surrounding surface of the eye lid your working on with ILLAMASQUA loose powder. so that if any fall out occurs you brush it away with ease.
2. Using the KRYOLAN eyeshadow brush and Aurora from the the MUA eyeshadow pallet I then covered the whole lid so there was a shine and glimmer underneath the finished look.
3. After tapping any left over excess powder off I then used the Kryolan brush again to cover the bottom lid with the Myan dust MUA eyeshadow. 
4. With the same brush I then took Canyon MUA eyeshadow from the tear duct up to the beginning of her eyebrow and then through her eyelid crease.
5. I then blended this out with a M.A.C 217
6. I followed the same line with the KRYOLAN brush that I did with Canyon but this time with Valley MUA eyeshadow and i don't go quite as far through the crews as i did with Canyon, i then blended this out with M.A.C 217 again so there were no harsh lines.
7. I repeated this process with tectonic eyeshadow but again not as far through the crease and blened out after.
8. the last eye shadow i used, bedrock MUA eyeshadow, followed the same line up from the tear duct to the top of the brow but then only covered the corner of the crease in the lid, i then applied this a few times over to give some depth.
9. I then used my M.A.C 224 to wipe away any access powder from around the eye and do a final blend over the entire lid to get rid of any harsh lines.
10. I lined the eye actually with the mac eye brow pencil swell because this way it gave more of a coal effect. 
10. to finish the look i used M.A.C eye brow pencil to draw a line at the bottom of the brow and lightly brush it through with a couple of strokes through her eyebrows. i highlighted under the brow with a little benefit watt's up! and blend this out with my finger.


Dark Lips Process:
1. line the entire lip with dark moth M.A.C lip liner
2. at the bow of the lip line with fashion boost M.AC lip liner
3. fill the entire lip with diva M.A.C lipstick
4. blend with a disposable lip brush
5. then use Russian red in the middle of the top and bottom lip and blend with the disposable lip brush.
6. put a little ruby woo lip glass in the centre of the bottom lip and ask middle to rub her lips together.

I finished this look with a basic foundation coverage over her entire face.

my estella exam

Products needed:
Illamasqua skin base primer
illamasqua skin base white foundation
Kryolan foundation
M.A.C limited edition kiss the king
disposible lip brush
Illamasqua loose powder
Kryolan blusher.
sectioning comb
paddle brush
curling tongs
 hair pins
 hair sectioning clips
 hair spray
pre curled extensions 
red feathers
bunch of off white flowers

Process of Estella make-up:
1. cleanse tone and moisturise the face.
2. mix the kryolan foundation with Illamasqua white foundation and primer.
3. apply this base all over the face.
4. powder the hole face with Illamasqua loose powder.
5. make the model smile and apply the kryolan blusher to the apples of her cheeks.
6. using mac lipstick and disposable lip brush apply all over the lips






















Process of Estella Hair: 
1.To start I sectioned the back half of her hair into a pony tail simply to keep it out of the way whilst I sectioned the front half.
2. In the front half I need a triangle section in the middle and two side sections. To do this i used my pintail comb and found the middle of her face by following it up from her nose. then in a straight diagonal line i followed this to the line sectioning the front and back of the head on both sides.
3. then I moved onto the back of the hair. I sectioned a small layer from the nape of the head and curled four individual curls. 
4. I then took that layer back combed the roots 
5.i then got a layer of my (pre curled) extensions and clipped them into the back comb of this layer.
6. I repeated this process of taking a thin layer, creating four - 5 curls, back combing the roots, and attaching the extensions through all of the back of the head of hair.
7. I then took the two side sections and combed them away from the face trying to be neat 
8. I pinned these sections behind the ears too keep of the face 
9. I curled the ends of these sections so any longer layers blend with the back of the head of hair.  
10. with the middle section I wanted a smooth finish with a small amount of hight, to do this I combed it back and then pushed forward a little and pinned
11. I then secured all I have done with some hair spray.
12.I finished this look with  red feathers and a bunch of fake off white flowers and simply pushed them into the depth of the curls, some stayed on there own and those that didn't I used pins to keep in place.


Wednesday, 15 April 2015

Characters of penny dreadful.

In order to fit Claudia and Quentin successfully into this T.V series I thought it may be helpful to look at some of the characters themselves.
Numerous individuals are acquainted with excellent literary characters like Dr. Frankenstein and Dorian Gray. "Penny Dreadful" brings those and different characters into another light by investigating their cause stories in this mental thriller that happens in Victorian London. Sir Malcolm is a explorer who has lost his little girl to the city's mythical monsters, and he will do whatever is expected to recover. His associate, enchanting  and perceptive Vanessa Ives, volunteers beguiling American Ethan Chandler to help find Sir Malcolm's little girl and kill some creatures along the way. 

Vanessa Ives 
she seems the most appropriate character to start with 
"To be beautiful is to be almost dead, isn't it?"- Vanessa Ives 
What can I say she is a bad as$ b*tch. The woman is based on a literary character as well and the composed, poised, sexual, beautiful character she is on paper has been excellently executed on screen as well.



Penny Dreadful Research

choosing penny dreadful:
So I may have given myself one of the more difficult series to research as its not actually being aired in England yet... but thats what trailers are for.
when coming to colour pallet I know that I have one image i can reference for them both which sums up the dark colours used, and the depth and weird warmth coming from the coldest colours:
When I first saw the trailers for penny dreadful i said visually it creates the texture of velvet for me. i imagine plush velvet red and purple curtens draped to the floor never creased but the fabric bunching and curling around on itself, as soft and smooth as satin but with far more depth and texture to it. this is probably because they use such rich but dark colours it stereotypically provokes very sensual and welcoming emotions in people. This would be confusing to some expecting the cold and stark feeling that comes with most horrors, T.V or film. But that's what makes it more appealing, its different it plays on sadistic thoughts and a lot more sickening things that society today has fears or. 


There are a lot of very explicit sex scenes in penny dreadful.
It's pretty graphic but thats what scares people today when they are watching something scary and sexuality is explored its weird when people enjoy it, and the fact that they know what they are enjoying is weird, is probably why they like it. Its a very storage emotion to provoke but society enjoys provoking unusual emotions because its different. and people are bored of the same genre being re-created in the same way constantly. I think penny dreadful has re-created a lot of stereotypical tools used within gothic horror the way sex is scene only being one of many.

As expected from most gothic horror T.V shows both series one and two of penny dreadful it includes blood. However as weird as it sounds their is different TV blood and the blood penny dreadful uses is gorgeous, thick, droopy, gloomy rich in texture and colour. It is never just smeared on a surface, but always leaving behind a thick trail that looks delightfully sticky. Yes, I'm aware that sounded pretty messed up, but look at the way it's lit by candle light in this glorious blood bath. 
They make blood sensual which for most people is defiantly scarier these days than the classic blood we are starting to get climatised to in todays society. 






victorian architecture

So when talking about victorian Architecture for me obviously we have to start with strawberry hill it was where gothic came from in my eyes.
what It looks like now does show what it would have been like but the surroundings don't capture the way I imagine the victorians to have built it its too perfect and too white.


But I seem to love sketches just so much more, the colours and detail are really appreciated in pencil as it makes you more understanding of the amount of work and intricacy that goes into victorian architecture, how many individual beams and spindles that would have been carved into making the overall image look very regal.

this image clearly shows all the beautiful high dealings that were featured at the time, to maximise wall space as in large grand rooms like this the interior would be very different from the modern ways we would design it now, instead all the walls would be filled with painted imagery in large gold frame work of all the family and friends, to put it casually.
I love this image As well because to me this really sums up a huge difference in victorian architecture in comparison to todays. the amount of effort put into a library is gorgeous just as the workman ship would have been into the books. you can see similar shapes popping up in all of these images a very elegant arch. this is now seen to be very gothic and i believe thats due to its link with all the churches that were built in this time era with this architecture. therefor it is associated with old and 'creepy' things hence gothic. Truthfully looking at images like this makes me want to convert and old victorian library into my bedroom but maybe thats just me, we don't make buildings like this any more and it is a real shame that steal and glasswork took over from elaborately carved and furnished woodwork is no longer appreciated in the same way.


Comparing Miss Havisham and Queen Victoria



Two women both with tragic stories and both wealthy. but the famous 'phrase money can't buy happiness' seems to apply to both. heart broken and devastated these women have a lot of similarities. Even just from these images although one being a re-enterpretation with Helen bon carter to represent Miss Havisham the emotion both images provoke are very similar. You can feel their pride, their sorrow and you can't deny that physically the aesthetics they both chose for their imagery and representation was very similar. Both happy to boast their wealth. One thing that i would say does draw them apart is the fact Miss Havisham was able to stay and taunt herself with her past a lot more than Queen victoria. Queen Victoria was forced to continue with her duties to her country and as a woman figure.

Vivienne Westwood- red label Kabuki Diva

2013 autumn winter London fashion week
Vivienne Westwood-  red label Kabuki Diva
dramatic tendencies
outlined the face with kabuki features then filled in the spaces with acrylic paints in PRIMARY TONES

models nails air brushed with rosy paint that extends up the fingers
HAIR
 referencing of madonnas strong empowering image showed off a super sexual and glamor as vibe.



THE LOOKAS A MOOD BOARD
THE IMAGES I BASED MY INTERPRETATION



from these mood boards and the brief of information i knew i would be using supra colour pallet and as they were primary colours it wouldn't involve too much mixing to get the desired colours.

This is my interpretation. I am pleased with my work and I like the way it reflects both the work i have been studying but I think in my own way. The main problem i faced whilst doing this look was the texture of supra colour although the colour is bright and very high pigment which is ideal with this look the consistency when it gets to warm means that it can print, smudge and blend a little too easily. so for instance on the eye lids where there were primary block colours very close to each other when she blinked they were starting to bleed into one and other. in an ideal world your model wouldn't blink but unfortunately i don't think thats a very viable way to improve my work. Instead I have thought if i was to repeat this look again I would powder with translucent loose set Illamasqua powder to set each layer. 

 After I had finished we swapped round and my model Daniella also interpreted this look on me